Recently, I reread some of art historian Lucy Lippard’s 1999 book, On the Beaten Track: Tourism, Art, and Place. I was reading her descriptions of Santa Fe as a tourist destination, and had to agree with a couple of her criticisms. Lippard claims that the visitor’s experience in Santa Fe tends to be artificial, with more of an emphasis on the city as purveyor of artifacts than genuine cultural experiences. At one point, she speaks of the Santuario de Chimayo as being a destination for both religious Hispanos and cultural tourists — or put another way, “those praying and those prying.”
Santa Fe has always been a bit of a problem for me. I had the good fortune to be taken there as a kid of 8 or 9, and thought it an exotic, foreign city at that time, like someplace in Europe rather than America. Of course I’m talking about 1962 or 1963. By the time I got back there in 1986, I felt like the Santa Fe experience had been reduced to that of purveyor status; the shops stood out so much more than any other cultural monuments or sensations.